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Because
my existing turn signal lever had a lot of play and seemed to require an
excessively large radius turn in order to stop signalling, I decided to
buy what appeared to be a good, low mileage lever offered by "socalbritbits"
on Ebay. Unfortunately, the happy purchase turned out to be my first bad
Ebay experience. The turn signal switch had a broken retaining collar and
the wiper switch had been pried off. It also arrived over 30 days late (convienently
outside the complaint window for both Ebay and Paypal). My only recourse
was to live with what I had, buy another one, or remove the two "DO
NOT REMOVE" screws and attempt to transplant the best of both turn
signal assemblies. |
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| Deciding
to make the best of my available parts, I took out the infamous screws on
my spare turn signal and found a fairly simple mechanism on the inside.
This is the first step of the process, with only the screws and cover plate
removed. |
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| An
overview of what you will find inside the turn signal assembly: 1) The turn
signal lever. Note the broken cruise wire (both levers!) and the small broken
piece. This is why my lever was flopping around. Note that the lever is
retained in the body from the rear by a plastic spring tab. 2) A 3 piece
assembly consisting of a small plastic cam follower, spring, and plastic
spring cap. This gives you the "click" when initiating a signal.
3) A 3 piece assembly that completes the left and right signal circuits
consisting of a spring, copper pin, and plastic spring cap. 4) Part of the
high beam circuit that breaks the circuit during turns consiting of a spring,
steel ball, and plastic spring cap. 5) Contacts for the turn signal circuit.
6) Contact for the high beam circuit. 7) Grouping of 4 parts that are the
automatic return mechanism for the turn signal. |
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| Close
up of main turn signal assembly with components in their relative positions.
Assemblies 1, 2, and 3 should be reinstalled after everything else is replaced
and fully seated. |
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| Notice
all electrical contacts are clean, shiny, and free of oxidation. I highly
recommend using a 3M Sanding Pen to accomplish
this. Also, though it is not clear from the picture, the cruise control
wire has be lengthened slightly and soldered back together. It was the shortest
wire in the harness bundle and probably bore all of the load before it fatigued
and broke. |
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| It's
also a good time to clean up the high beam contacts on the reverse side
as well. |
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Apologies
in advance for the resolution. The picture did not turn out well and I
had already reassebled the entire switch.
This is the assembly together
and ready for the cover plate to be bolted back into place with the exception
of the spring that retains the signal circuit contact pin (1). I wanted
its placement at the bottom of the slot to be clear. (2) is the steel
ball, spring and plastic cap. (3) is the plastic cam follower, spring
and plastic cap. Make sure the main assembly is fully seated in the housing
before placing these parts. Use a dab of dielectric grease on the electrical
contacts and pivots for the signal lever. I used my original turn signal
components except for the lever assembly which I took from the Ebay part.
All that remains is replacement
of the last spring and plastic spring cap. Insert the left leading edge
of the silver cover plate under its retaining tabs, place the black spring
on top and the two screws you weren't supposed to remove. |
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